Fashion’s Ten Commandments

Huma Yusuf. This article first appeared in The Friday Times (December 12-18, 2003).

Ten rules to guarantee the fashion event of the year, and the show that followed that formula a little too well.

If there’s one thing we do well here, it’s flaunt fashion with passion. But, as any vigilant coquette will tell you, it takes a hit list of magical ingredients to put together a fashion extravaganza. After all, there’s not much in this world that would make a women deck herself out in her best diamonds and furs (or in our case kundan and peshmina) and sport painful stilettos to spend the evening staring at women much more stunning than herself shimmy about in clothes she can’t afford.

Apparently something was gelling at the recent Lux Carnival de Couture because Karachi’s Beach Luxury Hotel was awash with see-and-be-seen-ers tottering about in naughty backless numbers and heels meant to defy the laws of physics. Of course, the slick bar, cocktail table and generous supple of socialite-appropriate air-kissed were not what attracted the crowd of a thousand. With designers and stylists still in awe at the glamour and panache of the Bridal Asia show earlier this year, our local fashion circuit was in need of a little ego massage. It was the anticipation of seeing the greatest hits of our glitz industry come out both guns blazing that set the Carnival up to be the show of the year.

Undoubtedly, a fashion Decalogue exists to guide hopefuls wanting to make events like this successful, And those Ten Commandments of fashion show organization probably look something like this (in no particular order of importance):

Pick your night

Schedule your show for the first Saturday night after Ramzan, and karachiites will already be well-disposed towards the event. The Carnival took place on November 29. When the post-Eid stupor had work off and an uncomfortable restlessness had descended over the city. It wasn’t technically December yet (the official party-hopping month), so there were no other glam events scheduled that threatened to steal the Carnival’s thunder. Spirits were as high as the hemlines, and no one felt the need to feign boredom or exude an unnatural nonchalance.

Indulge your Francophilia

When talking fashion, do it en francais. Who can resist a gratuitous rendition of a French accent? By naming the Carnival de Couture, organizers were talking about the show eons before it occurs: “Jaan, are you going to zee karneevaal doo Kootoor next week?”

Overcharge

Nothing is more exclusive than an event few can afford. Doling out thousands to show off an outfit and jewels that cost tens of thousands in the first place is perfect Pakistani party season logic. But only under the guise of philanthropy. The Carnival was organized by and meant to benefit the Teacher’s Resource Centre, a non-profit initiative empowering teachers nationwide. Most in attendance promptly forgot this minor detail. It was only when a mass exodus ensued during the post-show auction that the MC desperately reminded the audience that under all the glam the show was for a good cause.

Namedrop

Sana Safinaz. Faiza Amee. So much fun to namedrop. And unless you’re been living under a rock for the past two decades, you know why you should drop these names: the alliteration is just too tempting. Karachiites were listing the Carnival’s featured designers assiduously through Ramzan, and were glad for the opportunity to actually see their creations on the catwalk.

However, the name most frequently dropped pre-show was Christian Dior. Yes ladies, the House of Dior has officially been launched in Pakistan… But no need to hold your breath. Zamzama ain’t Fifth Avenue just yet. To manipulate the audience anticipation and create mystery, the Dior segment of the show was presented at the end in a save-the-best-for-last twist. The lights were switched off, Prince’s Cream blared. Behind an artistically lit white screen, the models evoked an orgy in sensual silhouettes. You could smell the promise of sexy, sexy and more sexy. What we got were a few “J’adore Dior” t-shirts, ill-fitting re d berets, industrialized purses and flirty, ruffles cocktail dressed that the models felt too self-conscious to catwalk in. Except Iraj, who took the opportunity to “Westernize” herself, and unleashed the vixen within by undoing her tightly wound bun and working the catwalk in a slinky grey-green-too-cool-for-school number. Go Iraj!

Go global

If India’s involved, we’re hooked. If Indian fashion is involved, we’re personally invested in the whole thing, dammit! In addition to Dior, the Carnival showcased two hip Indian designers, Suneet Varma and Rina Dhaka. While this diversity allowed the show’s sponsors to advertise an evening of “global high fashion”, everyone interpreted it as an evening of “let’s see whose designs really are better once and for all”. It was like an India-Pakistan cricket match, but girlier and with more flattering lighting.

Involve Tariq Amin. Somehow. Anyhow

Who else can use bold streaks of pink eye shadow without landing us back in the 1980s? Who else can bedeck his models in fluffy yellow pompoms usually used to decorate camels and make it look funkier than anything Christina Aguilera has ever worn? Who else can place colored feathers and burlesque headdress on finicky models and yet not have them look like aliens (or idiots)? Who else can take brooches, bindis, and chokers shaped like amoebae and sea anemones and make them pretty? The man’s a genius.

Don’t skimp on the booty

Vinnie, Iraj, Gia, ZQ, Sunita, Aaminah, Nadia, Iman, Tanya. Every Pakistani model you can name and then some was there. Twenty local belles with professional poise, sultry scowls and luscious curves were joined by three Indian imports. Our ladies were glamour incarnate, but the time may have come to re-think our modeling philosophy. Too many of the models looked bored, or angry. Their confident strut teetered on the aggressive. It was Tanya Shafi with her beaming smile that won over the audience. And when Iraj enjoyed her Dior girls-gone-wild moment, the sights of delight were audible. But the young lady who really had the crowd all atwitter was Indian vamp, Sapna. With her vapid sexuality, over-enthusiasm, vivid stage presence and distinct lachak, Sapna had a few too many bachelors swooning. Not that anyone’s complaining.

Minimalize

It’s an obvious deduction: the choreography and catwalk design should not overshadow the couture. Ahsan Najmi’s Y-shaped catwalk of frosted glass was a winner. The backdrop was softened, and as the shape of the catwalk allowed the models to walk into the crowd, the fashion literally leapt out. This design was complemented by Frieha Altaf’s meticulous choreography which ensured that each model worked her way over to each angle of the catwalk so that there was a complete voyeuristic equity among the audience. The model’s timing was impeccable – no one missed a cue, and the coordination was so immaculate, it felt like dancing. Unfortunately, the route the models chose to move about the catwalk wasn’t varied much and eventually lent itself to some visual lethargy. But then again, isn’t minimalism all about not really shaking things up?

Boogie-woogie

Madonna said it right: Music makes the people come together. Music makes the bourgeoisie and the rabble dance. Which is why a great show can’t risk a bad soundtrack. A little too much trance and the audience is in a hypnotic lull, which isn’t a good thing at a two-hour long fashion show attended mostly by fourty-somethings. Often, the music didn’t mesh with the designs: while Faiza Samee’s bridals were displayed by models with shy smiles, a disco beat blasted our enjoining listeners to “Shake that ass1” Hellooo… complete picture, anyone?

Party like it’s 1999

Plan an after-party. Fashion-smashion. The crazy exodus that occurred while the show was still winding up proved that the audience was still hungry to work their own mojo, and the after-party was where the real action went down. An elite, intimate crowd (comprising those who could afford to pay for their after-party ticket) was treated to the real exhibition of the evening: the sight of Tariq Amin (our homegrown John Travolta) and seductive Sapna shaking it down till the wee hours.

The organising committee reserves the right to amend the above schedules without any prior notice.  All participants will be informed accordingly of any changes.

All design submissions and entry forms must reach Runway Productions (S) Pte Ltd by 29 May 2004, 5pm. Should you need further clarifications on the above, please contact Ms. Tham Lai Yee at Tel: 6435 0030, Fax: 6435 0060 or Email: runwayevents@hotmail.com.

Asian Young Fashion Designers Contest 2004 (AYFDC)

Asian Young Fashion Designers Contest ’04 is organised by Runway Productions (S) Pte Ltd, and supported by Textile & Fashion Federation (S) and International Enterprise (S).